Duke Ct Gardens

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Italy

Simple Facts about Italy

• EU Membership: since January 1958
• Schengen Area: since October 1997
• Capital: Rome
• Official Language: Italian
• Currency: Euro (€)
• Railroad Company: TRENITALIA and .italo

train .italo is private and runs high-speed trains on select routes, while TRENITALIA operates regional and high-speed trains all over Italy. TRENITALIA frequently runs special promotions. As a general rule, the earlier you buy the ticket, the deeper the discount.

Trento

Trento is the capital city of the Trentino Province, or the Autonomous Province of Trento. Once part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, it was ceded to Italy after World War I. It is also the southern gateway to South Tyrol's impressive transit system - this is where you can purchase (from Trento railway station) and start using South Tyrol's Mobilcard to go as far west as Mustair with continuing service to Zernez, Switzerland on the PostBus, and north to Brenner/Brennero with connecting service to Innsbruck, Austria on the railway. On the other hand, if you have a Trentino Guest Card, you can enjoy unlimited travel on public transportation within Trentino, plus discounted admission into Castello del Buonconsiglio (as seen below) and many others for free. Whichever card you get, remember to validate it (in the blue/black box for the Mobilcard or the maroon-colored box for the Trentino Guest Card) before you travel!

In Trento, I'll return to Ristorante Patelli for "Fresh Chestnut Pasta with Porro, Chestnut, Ricorra Erbes Cheese" and "Pasta Scented with Blueberries with Duck Ragu". The restuarant may close during the last two weeks of August for vacation.

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Bozen | Bolzano

Bozen/Bolzano is the capital city of South Tyrol/Alto Adige, or the Autonomous Province of Bolzano. Like Trentino, it was ceded to Italy after World War I and eventually granted autonomy. Both German and Italian are the official languages. About 5% of the South Tyroleans speak a dialect called Ladin, and it's often displayed along with German and Italian on signs.

South Tyrol boasts a comprehensive network of public transportation. If you haven't purchased a Mobilcard or been given one for free by your hotel, it's highly recommended! Many regions in South Tyrol also brand and promote their own versions of Mobilcards, which are only available through participating hotels and offer free admission or discounts to various museums, castles and cable cars in addition to unlimited travel on buses and trains. For example, there are RittenCard (Rittner/Renon), Seiser Alm Live Mobilcard (Kastelruth/Castelrotto), BrixenCard (Brixen/Bressanone), HolidayPass Premium for the Kronplatz region (Bruneck/Brunico), Venosta Valley Card from March to November across the entire Venosta Valley (Glurns/Glorenza), etc. Regardless of the card you have, remember to validate it before you travel!

A familiar sight while traveling through South Tyrol is field after field of apple trees. Due to collaborative knowledge sharing, innovative research, coordinated marketing and sustainable agricultural policy, roughly 8,000 family farms in South Tyrol produce approximately 50%, 15% and 2% of the apples sold in Italy, Europe and worldwide, respectively. The most notable difference between apple orchards here and elsewhere is their adoption of the slender spindle system, where apple trees are planted in high density on dwarfing rootstock. This technique allows for a less labor intensive and high yield apple production, and as a result, a fair income for apple producers. I find it uplifting.

By the way, there's a MPREIS Supermarket (an Austrian chain) to the right of Cable Car Renon atop Bozen/Bolzano for picking up provisions.

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Rittner Horn | Corno del Renon

I'll return to Rittner Horn for the spectacular views of South Tyrol. And for better weather next time, maybe?

Do you see Alpe di Siusi and Kastelruth/Castelrotto? Look for the parish church of Kastelruth/Castelrotto, also known as the "Cathedral on the Mountains".

Estimated Travel Time to Rittner Horn

Segment	Frequency	Ride Time
Cable Car Renon	Every 4 Minutes	12 Minutes
Railway Renon	Every 30 Minutes	18 Minutes
Bus #166	Every Hour on Weekdays	10 Minutes

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Kastelruth | Castelrotto

Kastelruth/Castelrotto has it all for a charming, picturesque village - Alpine meadows, the peaks of the Dolomites, a soaring church tower, and more. My two visits to Kastelruth/Castelrotto coincided with a Sunday Mass and a parish meeting. People in town and from the surrounding villages gathered, dressed up in traditional Austrian attire, participated with spirit, seriousness and a sense of community. I cannot help admire South Tyroleans' will and pride in keeping their tradition and identity alive. It makes a place special, and in some way, it feels moving and hopeful.

I'll return to Hotel Zum Turm for half board (breakfast and dinner included) with unlimited salad bar. Actually, if you stay for three nights or more, half board is complimentary. I'll shop with the locals at MPREIS Supermarket (an Austrian chain) again too.

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Seiser Alm | Alpe di Siusi

It was all foggy and rainy when I got there... I'll return to Alpe di Siusi to "see" Alpe di Siusi. And for better weather next time, maybe?

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Meran | Merano

Meran/Merano was a spa resort in its heyday when it was frequented by high society and royalty, most notably Empress Elisabeth of Austria (1837-1898), also known as Sissi. Today it still retains an Austrian feel. Walking along the river in Empress Elisabeth Park is lovely, but it's not your only option in town for a pleasant stroll.

• Tappeiner Promenade: It's Tappeinerweg in German. The main access point is located behind the St. Nikolaus Cathedral (Duomo S Nicolo). The steps will take you up the hill for a sweeping view of Meran/Merano and its surrounding valley. If you work up an appetite after the climb and are not ready to go downhill with an empty stomach, Villa Gang is a good place for dinner after 6pm.
• Gilf Promenade: The Gunpowder Tower marks the end of Tappeiner Promenade and the beginning of Gilf Promenade. It provides an even higher vantage point for a panoramic view. If you continue on, you will encounter the oldest bridge in Meran/Merano at the narrowest point of the river Passer/Passirio. The Winter Promenade (Winterpromenade) in Empress Elisabeth Park follows, or the Summer Promenade (Sommerpromenade) if you choose to cross the river.
• Sissi's Path: It takes about 45 to 50 minutes to walk the entire 3-kilometer length between Trauttmansdorff Castle and the city center, or you can take city bus #4 in front of the train station or around downtown to walk in just one direction. From the Trauttmansdorff Castle, you cross River Passer/Passirio twice - first at the 17th-century Roman bridge where it connects Gilf Promenade, later at Via Roma from the Winter Promenade to the Summer Promenade where Siss's Path ends at the statue of Empress Elisabeth.

I'll return to Meran/Merano to visit The Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle and to eat at Bar Trattoria Mainardo again. There's an English menu now, and hostess Sabrina or her daughter can help you out with any questions in English. Bar Trattoria Mainardo closes on Sundays.

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Sulden | Solda

In the midst of the Stelvio National Park lies the village of Sulden/Solda. Surrounded by 14 peaks over 3,000 meters and Mount Ortles/Ortler - the highest South Tyrolean peak, Sulden/Solda is a reliable ski destination in the winter, and hiking and climbing destination in the summer. Near-by is the world-famous Stelvio Pass, which entails traversing 48 switch-backs between late May to the end of October. However, if you are not looking for all that excitement but some quiet contemplation, sitting by Lake Solda will just suit you.

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Glurns | Glorenza

Glurns/Glorenza, the smallest town in the Alps, is a historical gem with its closed medieval fortification and three gate towers preserved in their entirety. Within the old town walls, Glurns features medieval arcades and historic buildings such as those in Laubengasse Via Dei Portici, as seen below.

For food within the confines of the city walls, I'll eat at Restaurant Steinbock again.

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Brixen | Bressanone

I only had a quick stop in Brixen/Bressanone. It's supposed to be one of the oldest towns in South Tyrol. With a Brixen Card, you can have a daily free return ride (round trip) on the Plose or Monte Fana cable car. I'll check out Plose when I return.

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Pragser Wildsee | Lago di Braies

This is perhaps the most well-known lake in the Dolomites. To get to Lago di Braies, take the train to Niederdorf/Villabassa, which is one stop away from Toblach/Dobbiaco. Then catch bus #442 (Download Time Tables Here) from the stop across from the town square.

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Cortina d'Ampezzo

I'll return to Cortina - It feels like my "hometown" in the Italian-speaking section of the Dolomites. And for better weather next time, maybe? Most businesses close between winter and summer season, and it could be like, "where's everybody?"

Pizza seems to be the predominant item on the menus here and Cortina's pizza is commendable. If you like pizza, Ristorante Pizzeria Ariston, Al Passetto and El Bronsin are good places to go.

And I'll return to Hotel Natale for its people - friendly and helpful staff. Ask Stefano for hiking tips.

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Tre Cime di Lavaredo | Drei Zinnen

It's Drei Zinnen in German and Tre Cime di Lavaredo in Italian, but almighty either way. Hiking around Tre Cime takes about three hours - follow hiking route 101 from Rifugio Auronzo, pass Rifugio Lavaredo on way to Rifugio Locatelli, and circle back to Rifugio Auronzo via hiking trail 105 from Rifugio Locatelli. Another option is to pick up hiking trail 102 from Rifugio Locatelli and hike down the valley to Landro, for about two hours. In Landro, there's bus #445 to Cortina and bus #444 to Toblach/Dobbiaco in either direction. Be sure to seek out Tre Cime onboard bus #444 and bus #445 at the "Dreizinnenblick/Punto Panoramico Tre Cime" stop for a sneak peak view.

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Venezia | Venice

Venice is under siege - by increasing risk of flooding, by out of scale cruise ships harboring, by theme-park like crowds and atmosphere... Having said that, Venice is still a place that should be seen at least once. Single, one-way ticket from Mestre train station on the mainland side of Venice to Venice's S. Lucia train station costs €1.3 (as of October 2018) and the trains run frequently.

Honestly, I probably won't say I will return to Venice for sightseeing, but I'll more likely return to Mestre train station for picking up express buses to Cortina by Flixbus, GoOpti to go into Slovenia and Croatia, or high-speed trains to Verona and Milano, etc. If you stay or transfer around Mestre train station, a very good option for pizza is Pizzeria Da Michele. Turn right after you exit the train station, follow the road, pass by Flixbus stop before reaching the pizzaria as the road curves.

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Verona

I always stop in Verona when traveling between Milan and the Dolomites. It's a UNESCO world heritage site with a rich history and cultural significance as the setting for Shakespeare's "Romeo and Juliet". Even at night, the old town is full of life around the amphitheater (Verona Arena) as pedestrians and onlookers gather and hang out. Hidden in its backstreets and unbeknownst to the tourists are an abundance of traditional eateries serving regional cuisine at reasonable prices.

So, Romeo and Juliet can wait...

• Service may be slow at times, but I'll return to Osteria Sottoriva just for their tripe dish. Unfortunately, it's only available during cooler months.
• I'll return to Hostaria La Vecchia Fontanina for a bargain. Tasty lamb chop for €12 (as of September 2017) anyone?

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Cremona

I'll return to Cremona for a pleasant evening stroll around town with the locals. Well, the local train from Milano isn't the most elegant you will have, but Cremona is where you can see exquisite violins such as Stradivarius. The best and most valuable violins today were made by Amati, Stradivari and Guarneri during Cremona's golden age of violin making starting in the 16th century. Four hundred years later, contemperary violin makers still can't crack their secrets.

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Milano | Milan

I often stay around Milano Centrale (Milan Central Train Station) for an easy commute to the airport. Very often, it's Hotel Garda, but there are similar ones. The three airport shuttle buses to Malpensa on Piazza Quattro Novembre outside the station are all priced the same and interchangeable. Simply pick the company with a departure time that works for you. Buses to Linate Airport are located on the opposite side of the station.

Around Milano Centrale, I'll return to Pasticcheria Rovida for a nice cup of cappuccino and delicious pastry, and to Osteria del Lazzaretto for inexpensive Italian dishes. The staff are of Chinese-descent but bilingual. The portions are good and the food is more than adequate for the price at less than €10. Did you know that there's also a Chinatown in Milano now, and a Wagamama in Malpensa?

If you are adventurous enough for fried tripe, I would recommend that you get an urban 24-hour unlimited metro pass for €4.5, take the Yellow M3 line to the Porta di Romana stop for Trattoria Trippa. To avoid disappointment, a 1-week advanced reservation is highly recommended. Good Luck!

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Vernazza

In Cinque Terre (Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare), I'll return to Bar La Torre for pesto pasta. This is home cooking in the best sense.

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Lucca

Instead of the hustle and bustle of Florence, personally I prefer the quieter charm of smaller Tuscan towns. I'll return to Lucca to take a walk or bike on the city walls. One word of caution though, you can't see the end of the walls in some places, so mind your steps! I heard of a true story where someone's dog fell down the walls running!

Lucca's Torre Guinigi is unique for a medieval tower because of its roof-top garden planted with holm oaks. You will recognize it when you see it around town. Speaking of unique towers - if you are interested in seeing the Leaning Tower of Pisa, it's about 30 minutes away by train.

And for those of you who are opera lovers - Puccini was a native son of Lucca.

As for me, I'll return to Gigi Trattoria to dine with the locals.

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Siena

I'll return to Siena for some Tuscan charm, and hopefully to see the Palio horse race someday. It's a bareback horse race that's held twice yearly on July 2nd and August 16th right in Piazza del Campo.

If I don't get lost again, I'll return to Osteria la Chiacchera. This is where I got hooked on prosciutto, after a satisfying meal started with a plate of assorted cold cuts. Now whenever I come to Italy, I buy a pack of prosciutto as a snack from the supermarket as often as I can.

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Roma | Rome

Rome wasn't build in ony day (and you will agree when you get there), and it can not be seen with just one visit. I'll return to Rome for its history, its grandeur and for its fountains - Trevi Fountain at night is my favorite.

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Ravello

I would say the Amalfi Coast is a bigger, more touristy version of Cinque Terre, except for Ravello. It's perched on a cliff and perhaps this isolation enables it to retain a more relaxed atmosphere than other coastal towns? The bell tower of the Duomo and Villa Rufolo at the edge of the town lead to the main square where you pick up the laid-back vibe. I'll return to Ravello to spend more time walking around leisurely, without having to worry about missing the bus.

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