Croatia

Simple Facts about Croatia

directions_bus Bus is the primary means of public transportation in Croatia because the railway network here is not as developed as the rest of Europe. In Zagreb's main bus station, you won't find computer screens or mechanical flippy boards that display platform information. The safest bet is to confirm directly with bus companies that issue the tickets. However, you will find ATM machines for cash withdrawals, Zagreb tram tickets for sale at the tobacco shops, and must-have bakery Pekara Dubravica on the ground floor of the bus terminal.


Zagreb

Ah, Zagreb Upper Town. You may be in the shadow of Split and Dubrovnik but how magnificent you are!

St Mark's Church in St Mark's Square, Upper Town, Zagreb, Croatia
St Mark's Church
View of Old City Hall from St Mark's Square, Upper Town, Zagreb, Croatia
View of Old City Hall from St Mark's Square

If you take a bus from the main bus station in Ljubljana, Slovenia to Zagreb's, it's about 15 Euros per person round trip (as of October 2018), excluding commissions if you buy the tickets on getbybus.com. The trip is scheduled for two hours and 15 minutes, but border crossing could cause significant delays. Since Croatia is not a member of the Shengen Area (and Slovenia is), you will have to go through border checks in Slovenia as well as in Croatia - get on and off the bus twice to check in with the border police.

In Zagreb, the tram system is called the ZET. You can buy tickets at any tobacco shop and it costs 4 Kunas for half an hour ride. Validate the ticket once you are onboard. Now, if you only have

16 Hours in Zagreb

1) The Night of Your Arrival

Dinner at La Struk. Strukli is a signature dish of northern Croatia. Traditionally, it's made of special dough filled with cottage cheese only. At La Struk, you can choose between savory strukli boiled or sweet strukli baked. There is garden seating at the back of the restaurant if you like. After dinner, follow the Upper Town walking tour in the Step by Step brochure by Zagreb Tourist Board. Take nighttime pictures.

2) The Morning of Your Departure

Breakfast at Otto & Frank. Must try "Zagreb Breakfast" - Otto & Frank's modern take on the traditional breakfast. The two fried eggs that are crispy on the outside and perfectly poached on the inside are simply divine. Repeat the Upper Town walking tour in the Step by Step brochure by Zagreb Tourist Board. Take daytime pictures. Browse and shop in Dolac market, the open air market close to the cathedral.

La Štruk
Skalinska ul. 5, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia
+385 1 4837 701

Otto & Frank
Ul. Ivana Tkalčića 20, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia
+385 1 4824 288


Plitvice Lakes National Park

Designated in 1949, Plitvice Lakes is Croatia's first national park. It has also been an UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979. In my view, Plitvice Lakes National Park is a water garden carved and designed by nature comprising sixteen terraced lakes grouped as twelve upper lakes and four lower lakes. If you take the bus from Zagreb's main bus station to Plitvice Lakes and vice versa, it costs around 11 Euros per person one-way, and an additional 7 Kunas per stowed-away luggage (as of October 2018). Verify the platform number with the bus company prior to boarding. For example, Autopromet/Arriva's office is on the ground floor, a couple stores down from Pekara Dubravica. Others are located on the top floor of the bus station. It's highly recommended that you buy bus tickets in advance to avoid the unexpected. One good place to go is getbybus.com.

There are three lodges inside Plitvice Lakes National Park within very short walking distance of each other. If you are not staying in Hotel Plitvice, you can still have half board (dinner) for 10 Euros per person (as of October 2018), plus the cost of beverage. Entrance ticket is extended to the day you check out as a perk for staying in one of these accommodations within the park.

Hiking route C seems to be the most popular within the park. All routes are flat and should be defined as easy walking. Your entrance ticket includes one boat ride between P2 and P3 and vice versa, and there is no restrictions on riding between P1 and P2.

Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia
Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia
Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia
Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia
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Slovenia

Simple Facts about Slovenia

directions_bus Bus is the primary means of public transportation in Slovenia because the railway network here is not as developed as the rest of Europe.


Ljubljana

WOW Ljubljana, how lovely! Ljubljana has the green space and everything that is expected of a capital city. Meanwhile, it has a small town's appeal.

If you happen to come from Venice, one way of reaching Ljubljana is via shuttle service GoOpti from Mestre train station. Round trip per person is around €20 depending on how early you reserve the trip. The car ride takes about three hours subject to the number of pick-ups and drop-offs along the way as well.

Triple Bridge on Ljubljanica River, Ljubljana, Slovenia
Triple Bridge on Ljubljanica River
Central Market along Ljubljanica River, Ljubljana at night
Central Market along Ljubljanica River

In the historical center, you will find a Spar supermarket and a Hofer (a.k.a Aldi in the US, UK & Ireland) close to the Dragon Bridge. For toiletries, dm drug store is right next to the Robba Fountain at Town Square. To take honey home as souvenirs and gifts, visit Honey House on Mestni trg, further down from the Robba Fountain.

The culinary scene in Slovenia is a confluence of neighboring cultures - Italian, Austrian, Croatian... And Ljubljana has emerged as a foodies' destination. Klobasarna has the best Carniolian sausage. Look out for a whole-sausage link sign on Ciril-Metodov trg. The soup, either barley or turnip, is also hearty and delicious. Odprta kuhna (open kitchen) is a good option if you want to sample dishes from the best restaurants in town at an affordable price, or to taste cuisines from around the world. This open-air market runs on sunny Fridays between early spring and late fall at Pogačarjev trg square. If you are in a mood for a nice sit-down meal, Restaurant Pri Škofu has great food and friendly staff. However, it is 10-15 minutes by walk from the old town in a quiet residential area that could be rather dark at night. Having said that, it was worth the walk.

Klobasarna
Ciril-Metodov trg 15, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia
+386 51 605 017

Pri Škofu
Rečna ulica 8, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia
+386 1 426 45 08

Lastly, try a Cockta! Meant as a substitute for Coca-Cola during the communist era, it is now resurging in popularity. Its taste is rather herbal and medicinal even. It's not my favorite but hey, it was fun to try!


Postojna Cave

The tour guide at Postojna Cave said Slovenia is a small country with just two million people, but with big caves! How true! You can easily make a day trip from Ljubljana. The bus ride takes about an hour. From the bus stop, it's a 15-20 minute walk, contrary to (and longer than) what other sources may say. You will have a 10-minute tram ride from the entrance, and a total of about 90 minutes inside the caves.


Piran

Do you know that Slovenia has just under fifty miles of coastline on the Adriatic Sea? Piran is the jewel of the Slovenian coast, easily reachable by bus from Ljubljana. It can sometimes be mistaken as another picturesque Italian or Croatian coastal town, not only because of geographic and cultural proximity but also because it was under Venetian rule for five hundred years. In fact, it is nicknamed "the Little Venice." The best way to experience this medieval town is by wandering around the cathedral of St George on the hill overlooking the harbor, the lighthouse at the end of the peninsula, Tartini Square and everything in between.

Tartini Square, Piran, Slovenia
Tartini Square
Piran Harbor overlooking Tartini Square, Piran, Slovenia
Piran Harbor

Of course, the best lunch and dinner in Piran is seafood. Fritolin Pri Cantini, located in a small square, is my top choice. Župan Ivan s.p. "Okrepčevalnica Ivo" (or Ivo for short) is also recommended by a local.

Fritolin Pri Cantini
Prvomajski trg 10, 6330 Piran, Slovenia
+386 5 673 22 33

Župan Ivan s.p. "Okrepčevalnica Ivo"
Gregorčičeva ulica 31/33, 6330 Piran, Slovenia
+386 41 873 872


Lake Bled

My feelings for Lake Bled are slightly mixed. On the side of the lake in town, it's more touristy than I would like. As with most other cases, you can expect more charm as you hit the less beaten paths away from where the tourists hang out. Simply walking around the lake will give you solitude and that local charm.

However, I did enjoy the boat ride and the visit to Bled Island along with all the tourists. You have a choice of taking either an electric boat or the traditional, gondola-like boat called the Pletna boat. The former costs €11 per person, while the latter charges €14 per person (as of October 2018). If you are interested in testing your strength and luck with ringing the wishing bell three times, the admission to the church is €6 per person (as of October 2018). Lastly, the gift shop on the island has a good selection of souvenirs for you to browse and bring home.

Bled Island, Lake Bled, Slovenia
Bled Island with the traditional Pletna boats, Lake Bled, Slovenia

Besides the scenery, Lake Bled is also known for its cream cake called kremna rezina. It originated from the Park Hotel in town in the 1950's but the cream cake from Confectionery Zima is a must, in my opinion. A slice of Lake Bled cream cake from Zima is €3.3 (as of October 2018) and the cafe itself is just a lovely place to rest your legs after all that walking around.

Confectionery Zima
3, Grajska cesta, 4260 Bled, Slovenia
+386 4 574 16 16

Vintgar Gorge

Vintgar Gorge, just four kilometers away from Lake Bled, is part of Triglavski National Park. The easiest way to get there from Lake Bled is probably the taxi service from either Maya or Mamut for €5 per person (as of October 2018) one-way. The two are interchangeable. Pick whichever is closer to your lodging - Mamut's and Maya's offices are next to the bus station and the casino, respectively. The entrance fee to the gorge is €5 per person (cash only). You should be able to complete the out-and-back trail in about one and half hours.

Vintgar Gorge, Triglavski National Park, Lake Bled, Slovenia
Vintgar Gorge, Triglavski National Park, Lake Bled, Slovenia
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