Spain

Simple Facts about Spain

train Renfe advanced tickets are usually available for purchase 30-60 days ahead of travel date. Purchasing non-refundable, non-changeable tickets on Renfe in advance can save you up to 70% on AVE long distance bullet trains.

train When you travel around Spain by Renfe AVE or long-distance trains, be sure to take advantage of the free connections to regional railroads, valid three hours before and four hours after the AVE or long distance ride. At the purple Renfe ticket machine (where you can also print out tickets bought on-line):


Segovianew

The three main sights in Segovia include the Roman Aqueduct, the Gothic Cathedral and the Alcazar of Segovia. Many people will find the castle in Segovia familiar because it's said to have been an inspiration for Walt Disney's Cinderella castle! The whole city center was declared a UNESCO world heritage site in 1985.

For a great view of the Alcazar, exit the city from Puerta de San Andrés in the Jewish Quarter. Follow the trail, cross the bridge, and climb the steps to Calle Cuesta de los Hoyos. Turn right and follow the road, enjoying the viewpoints along the way. Just before the road ends, cross the road and follow the trail up the hill to Mirador del Alcazar y los dos Valles.

From Madrid's Chamartin train station, fast trains, usually Avant trains, take less than 30 minutes to reach Segovia's AVE train station. From the train station, bus #11 will get you to the Roman Aqueduct (final stop) in under 20 minutes. The bus fare is €2 each way (as of October 2019).

>Alcazar of Segovia, Segovia, Spain
Alcazar of Segovia
Gothic Cathedral, Segovia, Spain
Gothic Cathedral
Roman Aqueduct, Segovia, Spain
Roman Aqueduct
Roman Aqueduct, Segovia, Spain
Roman Aqueduct

Ávila

Ávila is a well-preserved 16th-century walled city in the Province of Ávila. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1985.

From Madrid, Príncipe Pío train station has frequent direct trains to Ávila. Upon arrival in Ávila, you can take bus #1 or #4 into the old town. Walk one block then turn right, pass a bus stop and cross the road to the bus stop by the park. On your return, it's a shorter walk to Renfe train station if you get off the bus when you see the station, not after the turn. Also, El Escorial is about 50 minutes away on Renfe Avant trains.

Avila, Spain
Avila, Spain
San Vicente de Avila, Basilica of San Vicente, Avila, Spain
San Vicente de Avila
Convent of Santa Teresa de Jesus, Avila, Spain
Convent of Santa Teresa de Jesus

If you are interested in trying local Castilian cuisine, Mesón el Rastro (also a hotel) offers a set menu for two for €39 (as of October 2019), featuring Castilian soup and 800 grams of steak. Be warned, it's a lot of food!

Mesón el Rastro
Plaza del Rastro, s/n, 05001 Ávila
+34 920 211 218


El Escorial

El Escorial is synonymous with the Royal Site of San Lorenzo de El Escorial (Real Monasterio de S.L. de El Escorial) or simply Monasterio del Escorial. It was a royal residence and burial site, now a UNESCO world heritage site. Photography is strictly prohibited, and it is closed on Monday.

You can reach El Escorial from Chamartin train station in Madrid. From Chamartin, the trains usually depart from platform 4, 5 or 6. Rides issued on reusable tickets cost €9.10 for two people (as of October 2019). The trains run daily from 9.50am roughly every half an hour. At El Escorial train station, turn left after exiting the station to take a shuttle bus to El Escorial bus station. Single ride costs €1 (as of October 2019). Walk up the ramp at the bus station and follow the sign for Real Monasterio de S.L. de El Escorial.

To return to Madrid by bus, take either local bus #661 or express bus #664 at El Escorial bus station. The express bus costs €4.2 per person (as of October 2019).


Madrid

Do you like the futuristic Madrid airport? You can connect to Madrid Metro and commuter or regional railroads at the airport.

In Valencia, it's all about orxata and fartóns. In Madrid, it's time for churros and hot chocolate! The best place for the combo is Chocolatería San Ginés. It's open 24/7, 365 days a year. You can choose to sit down at a table, stand at the bar or take out. The nearest metro stop is Sol.

Chocolatería San Ginés
Pasadizo de San Ginés, 5, 28013 Madrid
+34 913 656 546


Cuenca

Cuenca sits mid-way between Madrid and Valencia on the Renfe AVE line. From the Cuenca - Fernando Zóbel AVE train station to the cathedral in the old town, take bus #1 as you step outside the station. A single bus ride originating from or terminating at the AVE train station will cost you €2.15, while any other single ride around town costs just €1.5 (as of October 2019).

Cuenca is the provincial capital of Cuenca and a UNESCO world heritage site best known for its hanging houses called casas colgadas. The most prominent are the three houses with wooden balconies, now home to a modern art museum. If you are interested in hiking up to the Christ statue (Monumento al Sagrado Corazon de Jesus) where you can get a bird's-eye view of the cliff, walk past Saint Paul bridge (Puente de San Pablo) to the back of hotel Parador de Cuenca where the trail starts.

View From Puente de San Pablo, Cuenca, Spain
View From Puente de San Pablo
View From Monumento al Sagrado Corazon de Jesus, Cuenca, Spain
View From Monumento al Sagrado Corazon de Jesus

Valencia

Valencia is reachable from Madrid by Renfe AVE bullet train in one hour and 40 minutes. Coming from Barcelona along the coast via Renfe's Euromed train will set you back about three hours, with a full price ticket of about €48 per person (as of October 2019). There is a free shuttle bus connecting Valencia's Joaquin Sorolla train station and Valencia's Nord train station, although the two are within walking distance.

Often overlooked, Valencia is the third largest city in Spain. It is as vibrant as Madrid and Barcelona but more livable and less crowded, that's for sure. The city can claim credit for a few architectural innovations and culinary traditions.

While strolling the old city, make sure to drop by El Mercado Central (The Central Market) for an array of fresh produce, meat, seafood, Jamón Ibérico, and much more. The market is open daily from 7.30am to 3pm Monday to Saturday. Another nice spot to stroll and wander is Jardines del Rio Turia (Turia Gardens). As it was created on the riverbeds after diverting the flood-prone Turia River to the outskirts of town, this park winds through the old city, passing at least 18 bridges of different architectural styles. If you have seen the Oculus in New York City or the Milwaukee Art Museum in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, you will find Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (The City of Arts and Sciences) in Valencia familiar. That is because these are examples of the designs by Valencia native Santiago Calatrava. The major structures in the complex consist of a concert hall, an IMAX theater and planetarium, a science museum and an aquarium.

In terms of culinary traditions, Valencia's most notable contribution to the world is the paella. It is Valencian weekend ritual to have paella in El Palmar, in La Albufere region where paella rice is grown. Since paella is typically for lunch, restaurants in El Palmar run from 9am to 4pm only. If you are coming from Valencia on public transportation, bus #25 from Porta De La Mar with the final destination of El Palmar is the only option. The same bus #25 to El Perelló will take you off track, unless you switch to the El Palmar bus at the Pinars-Carretera Del Palmar stop. Restaurante Bon Aire in El Palmar offers a view of the rice field and canal in addition to authentic paella. In Valencia city center, one of the many good options is Restaurante Navarro. Just be sure to make a reservation ahead of time.

Restaurante Bon Aire
Caudete, 41 - 46012 El Palmar, Valencia
+34 961 620 310
info@restaurantebonaire.com

Restaurante Navarro
Carrer de l'Arquebisbe Mayoral, 5, 46002 València
+34 963 529 623

Another of Valencia's creations is Orxata (in Valencian), or horchata (in Spanish). It's a beverage made of water, sugar and tiger nuts served chilled. Sweet pastries that are dunked in the orxata are called fartóns. The most famous horchatería in Valencia is Horchatería Santa Catalina near Plaza de la Reina.

Last but not least, if you like a good cuttlefish amongst other tapa dishes, La Pilareta in the Barrio del Carmen neighborhood is the place to go.

Horchatería Santa Catalina
Plaça de Santa Caterina, 6, 46001 València
+34 963 912 379

La Pilareta
Carrer del Moro Zeid, 13, 46001 València, Valencia
+34 963 910 497


Barcelona

To go from Barcelona Airport to Barcelona Sants train station by public transportation, take the free shuttle bus (green) to Terminal T2B for the regional R2 Nord Renfe trains and Metro. A single R2 ticket costs €4.2 per person (as of October 2019). The ride takes about 20 minutes and it runs every half an hour on the 8th and 38th minute. At Barcelona Sants train station, you can purchase same-day Renfe fast train tickets at ticket windows 16 to 21.


La Alhambra y el Generalife

I'll return to Alhambra - It was a moving experience. Moorish art and architecture surprised and moved me by their beauty.

Court of the Myrtles, Granada, Spain
Court of the Myrtles
Court of the Main Canal, Granada, Spain
Court of the Main Canal
La Alhambra y El Generalife, Granada, Spain
La Alhambra & El Generalife
Palacios Nazaraíes, Granada, Spain
Palacios Nazaríes

Sevilla | Seville

Three things come to mind about Seville - Plaza de España, oranges and flamenco dance. Plaza de España was part of the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. Even though it was only built less than a hundred years ago, it was built on such a scale and a style as if it was from Spain's imperial past. The streets of Seville are lined with orange trees throughout. But don't be temped to taste the Seville oranges. They are of a variety that are too bitter for fresh consumption but famous for making marmalade favored by the British royalty. Flamenco is a mixture of gypsy folk music and North African rhythm brought to Andalucía by the Moors. It's an art form that combines dancing, singing, guitar playing, hand clapping, finger snapping and sometimes a small percussion instrument. For this cultural and historical richness, it's declared by UNESCO in 2010 as one of the masterpieces of the oral and intangible heritage of humanity. How fitting!

music_notePerformances I'll Return To

I'll return to Casa de la Memoria to see a Flamenco dance again - it was electrifying!

Casa de la Memoria
Calle Cuna, 6, 41004 Sevilla
+34 954 560 670


Córdoba

I'll return to Córdoba - visiting Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba was a solemn experience. Throughout the course of history, this cathedral-turned mosque, then mosque-turned cathedral embodies the perseverance of people, faith, art and architecture.

Mezquita de Cordoba, Cordoba, Spain
Mezquita de Cordoba, Cordoba, Spain
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